Hanoi | March 2024

It is always a pleasure to revisit Hanoi, even though the erratic weather and the deteriorating air quality have made my stay slightly more intense than necessary. Nevertheless, I have always had good vibes about the country since my first backpacking trip to Vietnam in 2003.

The reason for visiting Hanoi is to conduct a five-session Writing Photography workshop, hosted by Matca Space for Photography. I would like to thank Linh Pham and Ha Dao for supporting the workshop. I would also like to thank Nguyen Khoi Vu for taking care of me during my stay in Hanoi.

During my stay, I made a public presentation on 1 March 2024 at Matca, titled “A Short History of Documenting in Southeast Asia”. I am moved by the turnout on a Friday night. I would like to thank Ha for patiently translating my presentation to the earnest audience. We received quite a few questions and comments at the end.

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I spent the rest of my stay meeting old and new friends in Hanoi.

During my stay, I managed to explore, very briefly, the Cantonese Assembly Hall 粤东会馆 and the Fujian Assembly Hall 福建会馆 in the old quarter. In my previous visits to Hanoi, I was ignorant of the existence of both places. In the late 1970s, with the deteriorating relationship between Vietnam and China, the remaining Chinese fled Hanoi. If there were some who remained in the city, they probably tried very hard to conceal their ethnicity. Since then, the Cantonese Assembly Hall ceased to be a place of worship and gatherings. It was turned into a kindergarten around 1978. Something similar happened at the Fujian Assembly Hall, which continues to function as a high school today.

In 2018, the government decided to restore the Cantonese Assembly Hall. The space was reopened in 2021 as the Arts and Culture Centre at 22 Hang Buom Street. I would like to thank artist Nguyen The Son for giving me a quick tour of the space.

With the help of Mai, I also revisited Lai Xa, the traditional village of photography located at the edge of Hanoi. In 2017, I visited the village to conduct a few interviews. On this second visit, I managed to find answers to some of the questions that emerged over the years.

Back at Matca, I also managed to sit in, very briefly, the photobook design workshop, led by Swiss designer Ann Griffin from 7 to 10 March 2024. Matca also organised a public talk for Ann on 8 March, during which she shared the working process behind the three photobooks that she made recently. It is also a privilege to sit in, very briefly, the last session of the three-month mentorship offered by photographer Jamie Maxtone-Graham. He has offered this programme for several years. Matca is the venue host.

On 1 March 2024, I made a public presentation at Matca Space for Photography, titled “A Short History of Documenting in Southeast Asia”. The presentation is translated by Ha Dao. / Courtesy Nguyên Khôi Vũ
Courtesy Nguyên Khôi Vũ
1 March 2024 / After the presentation, I received many questions and comments from the audience. / Courtesy Nguyên Khôi Vũ
1 March 2024 / A few copies of my book, “Photography in Southeast Asia: A Survey” (Singapore: NUS Press, 2016), are made available during the talk. / Courtesy Nguyên Khôi Vũ
2 March 2024 / Hanoi
3 March 2024 / Hanoi
3 March 2024 / With Ha Dao, managing editor of Matca and contributing editor of Writing Foto, at Hanoi’s old quarter / Courtesy Linh Pham
4 March 2024 / With artist Nguyen The Son at the Cantonese Assembly Hall, 22 Hang Buom, Hanoi
View of the Cantonese Assembly Hall in the old quarter
Exploring the Cantonese Assembly Hall
4 March 2024 / Exterior of the Cantonese Assembly Hall
4 March 2024 / Exploring the Fujian Assembly Hall at Hanoi’s old quarter with Nguyen The Son
Peeping into the Fujian Assembly Hall, which is now used as a high school
4 March 2024 / Dinner with photographer Lê Xuân Phong
7 March 2024 / Revisiting Lai Xa, the traditional village of photography at the edge of Hanoi, to pursue another round of oral history interviews with the elders / Courtesy Mai
7 March 2024 / Bánh Cuốn Thanh Hoa (Thanh Hoa rice rolls)
Bánh Cuốn Thanh Hoa (Thanh Hoa rice rolls)
8 March 2024 / Bánh đa cua trộn chả cá (Haiphong flat rice noodles in crab broth, with fried fish and innards)
8 March 2024 / On Friday evening, Matca Space for Photography hosted a public talk by Swiss designer Ann Griffin, titled “Bookmaking & Publishing in Context”. During the talk, Griffin shared the working process behind three photobooks that she has made recently. Some 40 people, mostly young Vietnamese, turned up for the session.
9 March 2024 / From 7 to 10 March 2024, Matca Space for Photography hosted a photobook design workshop, led by Swiss designer Ann Griffin. The participants are seen working on their book dummies.
9 March 2024 / It is a privilege to sit in, very briefly, the last session of the three-month mentorship offered by Hanoi-based photographer Jamie Maxtone-Graham. He has offered this programme for several years and many of his workshop participants have become key members of the creative scene in Vietnam.
9 March 2024 / A restaurant that specialises in eels (lươn)
9 March 2024 / Deep fried eels (lươn) with glass noodles
10 March 2024 / I am finally at the roastery of RAAW Coffee, owned by Linh Nguyen, at B7 P. Hoàng Đạo Thúy. Their beans are some of my favourite in Southeast Asia.